Dream ride: Escape to the sun

Fancy experiencing the latest new models in a sun-drenched exotic landscape? It’s time you did a Gran Canaria fly-ride…

You know the feeling. It’s been raining for weeks and you’re doomscrolling through weather apps in an effort to find one with a glimmer of optimism. For motorcyclists, the first four months of the year always seem to drag, and while many are stoic enough to endure the elements and get out with their mates for a spot of very fresh air, we’re all united by the feeling that summer simply can’t come soon enough.

What if I told you that there’s a way to fast-forward through the gloom to a land where summer seems eternal and the roads are pothole free? The solution to beating the early-season blues lies just a handful of hours away over in the Canary Islands. The eight-island archipelago just off the coast of Morocco is well known for providing the most reliable winter weather available via a short flight, and has been a popular holiday destination for sun-starved Brits for years. However, the islands are less well known as a destination for affordable bike rentals and endlessly entertaining, well-maintained roads, which is why – after seeing yet another Met Office forecast for low temperatures and relentless rain here at home – I opted to escape out to Gran Canaria, the third largest of the islands, for a few days of sun and switchbacks.

‘You’ll feel like you’re along way from home’

Dry, cheap and pretty

We’re British, so of course it goes without saying that the weather is one of the major reasons to take a fly-ride to Gran Canaria. As with the other Canary Islands, cloudless days are common and the chances of seeing rain are slim, with the average temperature through the winter being around 20°C. Direct flights from the UK are four or so hours depending on your airport and cheap if you shop around, plus the exchange rate is favourable at the moment. The Canary Islands are cheaper than mainland Spain as they are classified as ‘Outermost Regions’ and exempt from VAT. Prices are generally a third less than the UK so a Euro will go a whole lot further in GC than a quid in the UK. And the icing on the cake is cheap unleaded, so even fuel stops can leave you feeling smug.

Economics aside, Gran Canaria is a stunning place with fantastic local food and amazing beaches. Being circular in shape and only 31 miles across, distances are never an issue. Use the eastern highway to get from north to south in not much more than an hour and spend all day exploring the scenic routes at your leisure. The majority of tourists will head for the most northerly Continued over (Las Palmas) and southerly (Maspalomas) resorts, leaving the fun roads in between quiet, and simply ideal for riding.

Then there’s the bike hire options. If you think holiday island bike rentals are nothing more than scooters and quads, think again. Canary Ride, the islands’ long-established rental specialist, offer an impressive range of everything from Hondas and Ducatis, to the latest BMWs and Triumphs.

While I’m here, I want to try a couple of adventure bikes back-to-back – Ducati’s DesertX and Triumph’s Tiger GT Pro – and am delighted to discover that they have both in stock. Canary Ride are situated in central Las Palmas near my base for the trip, and also have an HQ in Tenerife for those who want to head to the largest island.

‘The roads are constantly playful and occasionally challenging’

A taste of the exotic

It’s easy to plan a circular route, particularly in the north where there is a greater concentration of roads – or just ride from one landmark to the next, knowing you are never much more than a couple of hours from your accommodation.

After picking up the immaculate DesertX (which to my surprise was showing 35,000 miles) I head west from Las Palmas and cover the last stretch of coastal motorway, taking in the quirky surf communities of Galdar and Agaete where I pick up the GC200. This is an unmissable, mainly coastal mountain road that winds down to the beach at Mogan in the south west and is spectacular in either direction, especially as the sun is setting over the horizon.

The Ducati has such presence and, in the right hands with appropriate tyres, could no doubt decimate large sections of mountain trails or sea-level dunes with ease.

In reality, this was a tarmac adventure and the only hope of stretching its legs would be on the faster main roads and motorway. While the off-road sized front wheel copes well with the constant dropping in and out of tight turns, it does occasionally feel tall and weighty in more ponderous first and second gear uphill corners. Along with fifth and sixth gear on most of the mountain roads, five of the six rider modes are superfluous as it manages all situations well enough in Sport mode – that crisp throttle response driving the bike out of exits with urgency.

From the south I take the GC1 motorway for a spot of high-speed touring back to the top and start again, taking in the sights while zig-zagging from town to town, alternating between the equivalent of A- and B-roads. The scenery changes frequently as I pass through the banana plantations and up to the small towns with quirky cave dwellings, arid volcanic rock formations with copious cactus and aloe vera plants. Despite its relative proximity to the UK, Gran Canaria’s exotic landscape gives the distinct impression that you’re a very long way from home.

Try something new

One of the benefits of rentals is that you can easily move from bike to bike, so after a couple of days on the Ducati I return to Canary Ride to swap it for a 2024 Triumph Tiger GT Pro which had just been added to the fleet. I opt to leave the seat set in the low position as combined with the easily adjustable screen, it offers useful protection from the occasional strong winds that can whistle up the mountain valleys.

The Triumph lacks the Ducati’s sense of occasion and is less engaging, but it does a better job of disguising its weight and feels more at home on the road, with its smaller front wheel and extra cylinder. Perfect fuelling combined with instant low-end grunt mean that the Tiger can handle the nadgery switchbacks without mid-corner down changes or feathering the clutch.

From the sand dunes of the south via the mountain lakes and into the pine forests to the central viewpoint of Pico de Las Nieves at 2000m, the roads are constantly playful and occasionally challenging when steep and tight turns are combined.

An unexpected ten-degree temperature drop at the cloudy summit catches me by surprise and caused me to press the GT Pro’s heated seat and grips into action. Even here where the temperature is usually mid-20s in March, it’s worth packing an extra layer.

Gran Canaria is the only place in Europe with a climate suitable for growing coffee, which says plenty about the weather. If you want to escape the gloom of home and enjoy a few days of summer riding without breaking the bank, this is the most logical destination. The roads are fun and the compact nature of Gran Canaria means that you can cover plenty of ground even on a two-day rental, though four or more is ideal at a leisurely pace.

You don’t need 100bhp+ to have a great experience either, a mid-sized twin will provide more than enough for most riders and scenarios. It’s the perfect pick-me-up after a winter of wet socks and pothole punishment, and will get you in the mood for a summer of fun here at home – whenever it arrives!

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

RIDE THE CANARIES

‘Potholes are simply not an issue’

Aside from the motorway which serves two thirds of the island, roads are split into major (red), secondary (green) and local (yellow). Most of the major and secondary roads are in excellent condition and in many cases race-track smooth. Some of the smallest rural roads can be rough or loose enough to activate the ABS, but potholes are not an issue.

Cycling is popular and, bizarrely, is permitted on the motorway – an uncomfortable sight that takes some getting used to. Also watch out for the occasional HGV on the hairpin routes but they tend to blast the horn when approaching the tighter turns. There are static speed cameras on major roads and potential for mobile units throughout, as well as warning signs for police helicopters and drones. Concentration is a must as there are unforgiving drops at altitude.

Canary Ride (head to www.canaryride.com) rental centre in Las Palmas have around 30 current models to choose from (20 in Tenerife), though booking in advance is recommended, particularly if you want a premium model, as they are the most popular. There is no mileage limit and each bike is fitted with a phone holder/ charger. If you are planning on island hopping or staying at multiple locations there are hard and soft luggage options as well as a large range of summer riding kit available.

Bikes are split into three categories – Group A2 (300cc +) from €80 per day, Group A (750cc +) from €85 per day and Premium (750cc +) from €110 per day.

Getting there

Non-peak direct return flight £200+ from Gatwick and £300+ from most other airports. Coach from airport to Las Palmas £4.50. Taxi from airport to Las Palmas £35.

Accommodation

Average hotel room £65 per night throughout winter, apartments and Airbnb properties readily available. Unleaded average £1.07 per litre. Local beer from £2 per pint. Average annual temp 24°C.

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