I took a £24k, 280kg Harley-Davidson CVO Pan America off-roading and it blew my mind

Ever since tackling some unpaved passes in the Italian Alps, I’ve been itching to get the Pan America off the tarmac and onto the dirt. Weighing in at around 280kg without the luggage, there’s no denying it’s a big bike, but like any full-fat adventure machine worth its salt it should be capable of a bit of green lane action, and I was keen to get among some local byways to see what it could do.

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• Update one: First impressions and running in
• Update two: Racking up miles on a European tour
• Update four: Thousands of commuter miles for the CVO

Fitting some suitable rubber was the first move, but I didn’t want to go too extreme and lose the everyday usability so opted for Dunlop Trailmax Raid, an adventure touring tyre with a 50/50 on/off road bias.

It took a good 50 miles to shake off the sensation of the front and rear wheels fighting each other, but once the blocky tread pattern had bedded in, we were ready to head into East Anglia’s back of beyond, the pleasant land of Norfolk’n’good.

• Related: Dunlop TrailMax Raid review

There’s nothing quite like the sense of freedom that comes with leaving the madding crowd far behind to explore off the beaten track. Trundling along overgrown byways the Pan is quickly in its element, as am I, snicking between low gears with the Screamin’ Eagle quickshifter for smooth and steady clutchless progress while standing comfortably upright thanks to the aftermarket Wunderlich bar risers.

With Off Road Plus mode selected, the 150bhp Revolution Max motor behaves with impeccable manners, delivering a carefully measured response to right wrist inputs and making it relatively easy for me to feel my way along the deep, snaking ruts that lay hidden beneath the long grass.

I’ve also locked the ride height to maintain ground clearance and prevent the big Harley from doing its usual trick of stooping at walking pace, although I’m so used to that feature on the road that it catches me out more often than not when I roll to a stop on the trail. 

• Related: The best kit for riding adventure bikes as chosen by MCN

The neutral balance of the chassis belies its not insignificant mass and I’m able to shift my weight around easily to dodge vicious, throat slashing brambles and overhanging brush. Out in the open I start to stretch its legs, galloping along bumpy farm tracks and loose fire trails, and when the opportunity presents itself on a humpback bridge, I give the gas a blip and nudge the stick back in an attempt to get the Pan Am airborne. And take to the skies it does.

But what goes up must come down, and our flight ends quicker than a well rehearsed crew can switch cabin doors to manual. With a seismic thump that would likely be felt from King’s Lynn to Swaffham, we become reacquainted with terra firma.

However, despite the massive amount of energy involved the suspension does an admirable job of not bottoming out. It’s so impressive that I turn around and have another couple of goes, just to be sure.

The Trailmax Raid rubber is a great match for the Harley off road, and even though they compromise its precise road handling to a degree, they pander perfectly to its ‘military spec’ nature. That’s a phrase that I’m frequently using to describe the Pan America – it feels rugged and reliable, purposeful and tough, built to take whatever gets thrown at it. It’s simple to operate, can be easily customised for different missions and, so far, has followed orders without complaint.

There are still a few trails to ride before I surrender the Raids, then I’ll be switching to something more sporty for racking up some all-weather road-focused miles. 

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