SUZUKI DR350 (1992 - 1999) Review

It's an oversized scooter for me.

Made for longevity. No problems. It's got the power curve that is needed for both trail and street.

It's got really, really low miles for being 30 years old. Less than 10,000. I originally bought this for short jaunts, and as a backup to get me around. It's been off road & on the freeway. It's just a great motorcycle that can really take some abuse. This is a great bike to learn on for a beginner.

More for parts that have sun damage from American SW?

The turn signals by modern standards are outdated. Since Iv'e owned the bike have constantly replaced them due to size. Switched to smaller blinkers and still break em. Will fab bracket covers for them in the future for no more simple breaks on the stems.

It's 4.5 off road & 3.5 on road, so ave 4 out 5. With bigger bikes in garage, I still choose this 1. Yes the brakes are adequate, handling ok, if soft sprung and trials tires on road are ok. It's also a bit tallto get leg over. (I'm 5'10" , with 32" leg), ok once sitting on. Leg over seems more of an issue now I'm 56. U can get lowering struts 4 rear. But it's simple, easy, go anywhere nature makes it so nice to ride. Genuine 70 mpg. The tank is small though, so typically 100miles before refuel ( there are larger after market plastic tanks available). You won't want 2 ride 100 miles without a break. It's just annoying if U commute say 50 miles each way...you'll need 2 refuel daily

Low down power. This isn't a high revving machine. I think 60mph roughly 6000rpm. I've stage 3 the carb jets & race can by predator. Bit noisy but seemed a good idea 16yrs back. Does sound good. Lile a single should, but can get annoyong on a long run. Gearbox sweet. Clutch relatively light (cable operated).

The finish isn't brilliant, paint on frame flakes etc. But the overall bike is very solid & reliable. I've had mine 20yrs.

Oil & filter change. U really can do this yourself. Plug change, air filter replacement etc. All cheap and easy for a novice DIYer. Lots pf videos on line 2 help you.

By 2days stds, possibly 3/5 But don't read it as bad. Speedo with trip counter, tacho, neutral, high beam & indicator warning lights. Ave, to poor 12v lights. No traction control or AND. But it's very reliable. Narrow seat (It's a trials seat) and not long, so cramped for 2 up riding. Ok for 2 up on local trips.

Does everything at a medium level. You don't really need more for what it's used for.

Plods along nicely. Sit at 60 mph with ease I have got up to 80 mph on it but on nobblies any more I would of needed to change my trousers.

Great mechanically but the is some rust here and there. Saying that it's a 22 year old green lantern.

Oil filters,oil, brake pads ex

Its Got a electric start

It is what it says on the tin . . . an average all rounder, so don't expect a performance bike. But with minor modifications and upgrades, you'd be surprised what this bike can do and feel like. Front brake is definitely undersized for road riding, but off road it's fine.

The engine is smooth and sweet for a single piston. But it's slightly under powered. Put in a 440 big bore kit and performance exhaust and it changes the entire bike. This is what Suzuki should have done and kept the model going.

There is one big flaw with the DR350 - the counterbalance driven gear pin! On some models, instead of a stepped recess for the pin, they drilled the hole the same size all the way through. This allows the registration pin to move away from the gear and the gear now moves freely and BAM!!! . . . The counterbalance shaft is driven out the front of the engine case and oil everywhere. At minimum, you would have to pull the cylinder head to identify whether you had this problem or not. I didn't do that and 27,000km into a great upgraded bike and it exploded on me. There is information on this issue on the web, so look it up if you own one or are thinking of owning one. That said, I'd buy another if I had to, but I'd pull the cylinder to make sure the problem doesn't exist. I was lucky it happened at slow speed on a back road and not the freeway! Other than this potentially disastrous manufacturing flaw, the bike is bulletproof. Also, try and find another bike that has grease-nipples! That alone make this a "real bike".

I'd say with oil, tires, brakes and chain, the average cost for annual maintenance is $300 - $500. Parts are inexpensive compared to other bikes, but getting more and more difficult to source.

With a rack and side panniers, this bike is a great adventure bike. But it's difficult to find accessories. I custom made a rack for hard cases and regularly take it on week long or more camping trips.

Street to find that trail, or just run light errands. Bike is all around reliable (my first enduro), but picked this one for a reason. Power to weight ratio for a street legal is great. Feels like a heavier dirtbike, but not a street bike at all.

Could have more power, but certainly reliable. Maybe I'll get a pipe and change this score. Just got a K&N but haven't tested yet. Might be better already....

Header pipe corroded first, but kind of expected. Every piece on this bike comes off with 2 bolts (10 or 12mm) or phillips screwdriver. It's so easy to clean any corrosion, paint, etc. Normal wear and tear, but nothing specific. Very easy and cheap to fix anything.

Change the oil/filter, check/change spark plug, battery tender, clean air filter and the bike is fine....Doesn't need much. I got a larger plastic tank, grips; 20 years, still starts at the touch of a button, even after 3 months winterized (from NYC). Changed brake pads after 3k miles; didn't need it, just something to do!

I bought used from a dirtbike adult (several bikes in the garage). He had it tuned for trails, and it's nice. Bought a bigger plastic tank, grips. Not much needed. 20 year old carb is getting rebuilt as we speak (sat for 1.5 years and I think all the rubber seals are screwed, and may as well get new jets).