Give me 150-ish bhp and fewer electronics any day of the week | Expert guide to analogue sportsbikes

The 1990s and early 2000s were a golden era for sportsbikes. They were exciting, great-looking and had performance figures that were much more accessible for road riders than some of the power#2;laden machines that came later (and saw the popularity of the class tumble). And there were very few fussy electronics!

This week we have turned our attention to some classy ‘analogue’ sportsbikes that can be had for relatively little cash in the used market yet still deliver on fun and performance.

• Related: Bag a genuine superbike for under £5k

Read on for our expert guide to analogue used sportsbikes for sale!

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MCN Recommended: 1994 – 2003 Kawasaki ZX-9R – £999 – £4999

Don’t dismiss it as the also-ran of the sportsbike class

Spec:

• Power 144bhp
• Engine capacity 899cc
• Seat height 827mm
• Kerb weight 204kg

The Ninja ZX-9R was a victim of Kawasaki’s lack of interest in the litre-bike class and as such quite quickly became the also-ran. Slightly behind the curve in both its design and engineering, the Ninja couldn’t compete with the likes of the R1 or Blade in terms of outright performance.

• Related: MCN’s favourite kit for riding sportsbikes

That said, it has a typically Kawasaki barn-storming motor with bags of midrange and a solid chassis that won’t throw you any nasty tank-slapping surprises. And it’s very affordable.

Kawasaki ZX-9R used buying advice

● The gearbox can be weak on pre-2000 Ninjas so check all is well on a test ride. It is usually third gear that fails.
● Although they look impressively macho, early bikes’ six-piston calipers have a reputation for sticking pistons. They aren’t too hard to rebuild but if left unsorted can warp discs. Check for any juddering on a test ride.
● There is a carb heating filter located behind the right hand carb on the heating circuit which often gets blocked. If you start to experience carb icing on cold days, look here first.

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2002 – 2003 Yamaha YZF-R1 5PW – £3500 – £5500

Refined R1 is one of the best of the breed, and still looks sharp

Spec:

• Power 152bhp
• Engine capacity 998cc
• Seat height 813mm
• Kerb weight 192kg

The Yamaha R1 5PW was the third and last of the ‘older-generation’ of R1s and many view it as one of the best ever made. This generation featured a fuel-injection system that is almost a hybrid between carbs and injectors. Beautiful to ride with a lovely throttle response and gutsy motor, the chassis is sublime with bags of agility but more stability than earlier bikes.

Yamaha YZF-R1 5PW used buying advice

● All pre-2004 R1s have the same design of gearbox, which is known for weak second and third. Check all is well by accelerating hard and seeing if it hops out of gear.
● A ‘tea bag’ fuel filter is located within the tank and can get blocked with debris, robbing the bike of power. If it feels lethargic, look here.
● Early R1s have a large connector located on the left below the air scoop that is the main electrical feed. If it gets corroded it can short, causing the lights to flicker.

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2002 – 2003 Honda FireBlade 954 – £4000 – £5500

Quintessential Tadao Baba-era Blade still cuts it today

Spec:

• Power 155bhp
• Engine capacity 954cc
• Seat height 815mm
• Kerb weight 192kg

The 2002/03 FireBlade (which most simply call the 954 due to its capacity) delivers just about the perfect balance of performance and handling. Beautifully built, the 954 motor has bags of grunt. Designed more with road riding than lap times in mind, the Blade is a great buy. And a practical one – how many other sportsbikes have a flip-up pillion with underseat storage?

Honda FireBlade 954 used buying advice

● Get the front in the air and feel for any roughness from the headstock bearings, which will probably be past their best by now.
● The exhaust valve is under the engine, check it is opening and shutting freely as it may (probably will…) be seized solid, robbing the bike of low-end power.
● Avoid any machines with an old alarm fitted, they are often the root of electrical nightmares. Ideally, get it removed!

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1998 – 2001 Suzuki TL1000R – £2999 – £5500

It missed the mark but still has a cult appeal

Spec:

• Power 135bhp
• Engine capacity 996cc
• Seat height 825mm
• Kerb weight 214kg

The Suzuki TL1000R failed to have much sales or track success, but that doesn’t stop the V-twin superbike from being a much-loved model. Suzuki make the TL-R too lardy to really be effective on track and then hampered it further with a lousy rear damping system. But, again like the Kawasaki, a good TL-R is a beautiful bike to ride and own with bags of soul.

Suzuki TL1000R used buying advice

● Always take the time to inspect a TL’s frame as it is prone to cracks around the mounting points for the suspension system.
● When on a test ride, listen for the engine making a knocking sound that indicates the crank bearing is on its way out – it is a common fault on high-mileage TLs.
● Although the controversial rotary damper is a bit rubbish, many buyers are looking for originality. If you do fancy an upgrade, Maxton build a conventional shock.

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2000 – 2003 Aprilia RSV-R Mille – £2000 – £4500

How about ‘the other’ Italian V-twin that’s often overlooked…

Spec:

• Power 128bhp
• Engine capacity 997cc
• Seat height 825mm
• Kerb weight 220kg

Always remarkable value, the first generation of Aprilia RSV-R (which is the top-spec model, it was only named ‘Factory’ with the second gen) comes with OZ Racing lightweight wheels, Öhlins suspension and a great V-twin engine that is reliable and fairly cheap to run. Bigger and less focused than a Ducati, the RSV-R is a touch top-heavy but sounds and goes fantastically well.

Aprilia RSV-R Mille used buying advice

● Update the battery to one with a high CCA rating. The stock Aprilia unit has a 90CCA, but one with 230CCA helps protect the sprag clutch. Also ensure the starter solenoid is a 150amp unit (early bikes run a weaker 50amp one).
● Listen for a squeaking or rattle on start-up that suggests the sprag clutch is damaged. Not cheap, it costs more than £400 to replace.
● Get the throttle bodies balanced. It’s a quick fix that transforms how an RSV feels to ride.